Elsa sits on Charlotte Street and shifts effortlessly from day to night.
Mornings bring pastries and coffee; lunches stay light; evenings move into small and large plates, charcuterie, cheeses, and bar snacks.
Chef Holly Hayes, formerly of 40 Maltby Street, leads a Franco-Germanic, Alsatian-inspired kitchen.
Expect family-style Fosse Meadows chicken on Saturdays, nettle and spinach soup, rich stews, terrines, and sharing dishes designed for a lively table.