Rovi on Wells Street marks a confident evolution of the Ottolenghi ethos—
vegetables take centre stage in a fire-and-ferment-led kitchen run by Neil Campbell, in collaboration with Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi.
The space, with its pale wood, red banquettes, and central revolving bar, feels modern yet low-key theatrical.
Plates draw from Middle Eastern, Japanese, and Scandinavian influences, shifting with the seasons.
Highlights include the much-talked-about celeriac shawarma, rich with smoke and fermented tomato, alongside bright pickled snacks and umami-forward mains like grilled halibut or coconut cod.
Desserts, such as blood orange treacle tart and matcha ice cream, maintain the same inventive but grounded spirit.
